April 14, 2023 | Farvardin 25, 1402
Eslamshahr.
Image: Coin depicting Imam Ali ibn Abi-Taleb, holding his scimitar called Dhulfiqar.
Rooz-e Quds Jahani
It is my 4th day in Iran. I was invited to dinner at my friend’s family home in Eslamshahr. I am comfortable using the metro by now. I made my way down to the lobby and thus began the 12-minute walk to istigah Ferdowsi metro station. I walked south on Nejatollahi street, but as I got closer to Enghelab street (where I was to make a left turn), I heard a loud commotion. A parade? A protest? I kept walking. Ah! It is a parade. For what? I stood behind the fence and heard a choir of little kids singing. I saw a little Yemeni flag being waved by someone. I wanted to wave back. But there were too many people and motions. Finally, after seeing a couple of Palestinian flags, I remembered that today was Palestine Day (Rooz-e Quds): a day to show solidarity with Palestinians living under brutal occupation. I am familiar with Nakba Day on May 15, but Rooz-e Quds was something I learned about only one year ago. It is known as Rooz-e Quds Jahani (World Jerusalem Day). It falls on the last Friday of Ramadan, on the Islamic calendar.
Quds comes from the Semitic tri-consonantal root, which means “holy”, and is used in Arabic, Assyrian, and Hebrew. In my life, I have never experienced a Palestine event so large. In the past, I have seen small parades for Palestine, where Israeli counter-protesters would show up and start their own march, and vice versa: Israeli parades, with a group of Palestine advocates later showing up. So, this was a pretty novel thing to observe. I wanted to stay longer to see what happens, but I did not want to make my friend wait for me any longer. FOMO, an acronym meaning “fear of missing out”, hit me as I continued to the metro. I know this event has nothing to do with Iranian culture, but it represents a perspective of a significant Iranian demographic, which would help me understand and appreciate all the demographics of Iran on a deeper level.
Metro
I shared my live location with my friend, since I’d get picked up once I arrive to Azadegan station—the last station on the south-end of the turquoise line. I suppose the internet was lagging or Google Maps is poorly calibrated in Iran, because I was told I was going the wrong way. But I knew I was on the right track because I studied the maps very carefully and even took notes before leaving my room. Fatima, a commuter who somehow picked up on my foreign-ness, helped me. She offered me candy; a tiny candy wrapped in a shiny pink wrapper. She talked to my friend on the phone. Ok, so I am on the right track. When I arrived to my last stop, Istigah Azadegan, another Fatima helped navigate me to the correct exit — there are multiple exits/entries at each station. I guess the two Fatima’s made a pact. It wasn’t until I left the station that I had a thought; I think the first Fatima intentionally missed her original stop just to make sure that I got off at the correct station, because I never saw her leave the train. Oh noooo. 😦
Eslamshahr
I located my friend and her family at the metro. There is a long drive to their neighbourhood, so we talked. I started to notice many photos of people posted in large signs and billboards as we drove down the road. Hard to ignore. I learned that they commemorate martyrs or recently deceased people. I wish I could understand what was written next to those photos.
Zanjani Taarof
I learned that Zanjani-style taarof (hospitality from the province of Zanjan) is usually more laid-back and “colder” than Shirazi-style (i.e.: “You don’t want another serving? Ok, no pressure.”). I am more comfortable with this, since I genuinely don’t like to decline the hosts’ offer for more food more than once 🙂 I picked up a new phrase from her family: “Zahmet nakesh“, which means, “do not trouble yourself”. Say to your host when they rush to the kitchen and back to offer you tea and cookies. They will likely respond with a,”Zahmeti niest” (“It’s no problem!”). I had three cups of tea, which for me, is a lot. Or was it four?
Currency: Coins and Bills
We did a coin swap: I gave my friend a U.S. dollar coin and I received several decades-old Iranian coins. I found out about a little tradition that exists in parts of Iran. From what I understood, if someone has sayyed ancestry, they pass out bills at the mosque to other worshippers during Eid. Those bills usually have their signature on them. Sayyed: a title similar to “lady” or “lord”; refers to those with a lineage leading to Lady Fatima and Imam Ali. I learned that this practise is not a religious act, but just a fun tradition. Now I’m curious where and when this tradition started. I do know that Islamic mandate states that saadeh—plural form of sayyed—cannot accept sadaqah (voluntary charity) for themselves, but they still must contribute to the zakat (mandatory charity). I will research this later.
Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeyni’s Shrine
Within 2 hours of arriving to Iran on my first day, I saw the shrine but did not enter it. Tonight, we visited the inside. I had to wear a chador, but only in the mosque section. We walked to the mausoleum. This was my second time seeing a mausoleum in Iran, and second time in my life. I’m more familiar with tombs. Anyway, there were several people buried alongside Imam Khomeini: his wife, one of his sons, and President Rafsanjani. There were a handful of others, and that is all I remember. We stayed for a bit, but it was getting late. I’ve never been in a place like this before. It was surprisingly empty, or the place is just massive (really high ceiling, too).
*TIP* Photos and Videos in Public:
I did not take photos of the Quds Day Event I wanted to, but I wasn’t sure if it was allowed, was short on time, and I wanted to absorb with my senses as much as I could. When you’re a solo tourist, always be vigilant of your actions and if you’re unintentionally breaking a custom. If you’re unsure about taking photos or videos in public, either ask a local, or don’t take the risk. Guess what? I got scolded in an ice-cream shop for taking a quick video of the ice cream display. I did not think ice-cream could be so sensitive haha. I promptly deleted the video. Always ask 🙂
Iran, Az Cheshmanam 